5th Avenue Eau de Parfum Gift Set

As a present for someone who grew up with proper perfume, the Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue Eau de Parfum Gift Set is close to unimprovable, because the fragrance inside it is unapologetically large. It opens on a whole bouquet rather than on any single material. Magnolia and lilac arrive together, creamy and sweet with a green edge, linden blossom adds its soft pale sweetness, lily of the valley brings a dewy clean lift, and mandarin orange and bergamot sit above the lot keeping it bright.

Then the heart unfolds, and there is a great deal of it. Bulgarian rose and jasmine do the heavy work, ylang ylang adds creamy spiced weight, tuberose pushes into something heady and almost waxy, violet scatters powder across the surface, and peach rounds the fruit. Clove and nutmeg come in beneath, dry and warm, and give the flowers a backbone they would otherwise lack.

The last hours are the best part. Sandalwood, amber and vanilla build a smooth warm base, iris lays cool powder over it, and musk settles the whole thing onto the skin. At eau de parfum strength it will see out a full day and most of an evening after it, so a light hand is sensible.

Boxed, it makes a present that looks like one, and it takes away the risk of choosing a size the recipient turns out not to want. Best in cold weather and after dark, and firmly feminine in character throughout.

The house itself is American, begun as a Fifth Avenue salon and extended over the years into skincare, cosmetics and fragrance. Perfumery stayed in house rather than going out under licence, and Revlon, which completed its acquisition in September 2016, makes the fragrances.