The Scent Vault Fragrance Knowledge Hub

The Fragrance Guide

Everything worth knowing about fragrance, written for real people. Concentrations, families, notes, wear, storage, and the shorthand every enthusiast eventually picks up. Consider this your bookmarkable reference, updated whenever we learn something new worth passing on.

08 Chapters
40+ Terms defined
10 Minute read
Chapter 01

Understanding Fragrance

A fragrance is not one smell. It is a carefully constructed evolution that changes on your skin over the course of hours. Before you can find a fragrance you love, it helps to know what you are actually smelling and why it behaves the way it does.

Concentrations Explained

The words on the bottle (Parfum, Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette) tell you how concentrated the fragrance oils are. Higher concentration usually means longer wear and richer character, but also a heavier price and a more assertive presence. There is no single "best" tier. The right one depends on the fragrance itself and how you plan to wear it.

Parfum Extrait de Parfum
Oil load20 to 40%
Typical wear6 to 10 hours

The richest tier. Dense, intimate, closer to the skin, and long lasting. Often smaller bottles because you only need a dab or two.

Eau de Parfum EDP
Oil load15 to 20%
Typical wear4 to 7 hours

The modern standard. Rich enough to project and last a full evening, versatile enough for daytime. Most designer and niche releases live here.

Eau de Toilette EDT
Oil load5 to 15%
Typical wear3 to 5 hours

Lighter, brighter, easier to wear. Great for warm weather, office wear, or people who prefer a fragrance that whispers rather than announces.

Eau de Cologne EDC
Oil load2 to 5%
Typical wear2 to 4 hours

Traditionally citrus led, refreshing, and short lived. Best for hot climates or an after-shower splash. Reapply generously.

Eau Fraiche Fresh Water
Oil load1 to 3%
Typical wear1 to 2 hours

The lightest tier. Almost a scented mist. Rarely seen from major houses. Think of it as summer body spray with better composition.

Elixir & Intense Marketing tier
Oil loadVariable
Typical wear6 to 12 hours

Modern names houses use for reformulations that lean heavier than the standard EDP. Not a regulated category. Read the notes list rather than trust the label.

Rule of thumb

If two versions of the same fragrance exist (EDT and EDP), they will often smell noticeably different, not just stronger versus weaker. Concentration changes how notes balance, so treat them as related but distinct compositions.

Longevity, Sillage, and Projection

Three words the fragrance community throws around constantly. They mean different things and are often confused, so here is the plain-English version.

Longevity

How long it lasts

The total time you can still smell the fragrance on your skin from application to full fade. Affected by concentration, skin type, humidity, and how much you applied.

Projection

How far it reaches now

The bubble of scent immediately around you at any given moment. Strong projection means people notice as they approach. Weak projection is a skin scent, private and close.

Sillage

The trail you leave

From the French word for wake, as in a boat's wake. Sillage is what lingers in the room after you have walked through. Related to but not the same as projection.

The Dry-Down

A fragrance is not static. It evolves through three phases as different molecules evaporate at different rates. What you smell on the initial spray is not what you will smell three hours later. This evolution is called the dry-down, and understanding it prevents you from judging a fragrance on the first 30 seconds.

00:00

Opening

First 5 to 15 minutes. What you smell right after spraying. Bright, sharp, sometimes alcoholic. Do not judge yet.

00:15

Heart

The middle 2 to 4 hours. The main character of the fragrance. This is where you start to know whether you love it.

04:00

Dry-Down

The final phase. Softer, warmer, closer to the skin. Often the most personal and intimate stage. Many fragrances live or die on this hour.

Chapter 02

Scent Families

Scent families are the broadest categories perfumers use to group fragrances. They are not rigid genres. Modern compositions often blend two or three families together. Knowing the families gives you a shared vocabulary for describing what you like and helps you predict how something might smell before you ever try it.

01

Floral

The largest family. Rose, jasmine, tuberose, iris, violet, lily. Ranges from powdery and soft to green and sharp to indolic and heady.

Rose Jasmine Iris
02

Woody

Sandalwood, cedar, oud, vetiver, patchouli. Warm, grounded, often masculine coded but equally worn by women. The backbone of countless modern compositions.

Sandalwood Cedar Oud
03

Oriental & Amber

Sometimes called amber. Warm, resinous, sweet, and sensual. Vanilla, amber, benzoin, labdanum, spices. The signature style of many evening fragrances.

Amber Vanilla Spices
04

Fresh

Citrus, aquatic, green, aromatic. Bergamot, lemon, sea salt, mint, basil. Clean, uplifting, universally likeable. Great for warm weather and office wear.

Citrus Aquatic Aromatic
05

Chypre

Pronounced "sheep-ruh". A classic structure built on citrus top, floral heart, and oakmoss or patchouli base. Sophisticated, complex, timeless.

Oakmoss Bergamot Labdanum
06

Fougère

Pronounced "foo-jair", French for fern. Aromatic and green, built around lavender, coumarin, oakmoss, and geranium. The backbone of classic masculine fragrance.

Lavender Coumarin Geranium
07

Gourmand

The edible family. Vanilla, caramel, coffee, chocolate, praline, honey. Sweet, warm, comforting. Extremely popular in modern releases.

Vanilla Coffee Caramel
08

Leather

A niche of its own. Smoky, tannic, animalic. Suede, birch tar, castoreum. Often paired with tobacco or oud for a bold, statement effect.

Suede Tobacco Birch
Chapter 03

Notes

Notes are the individual scent elements you can pick out inside a fragrance. Perfumers arrange them in three tiers based on how quickly they evaporate. Together these tiers create the arc of the composition, from the first spray to the final hour.

01

Top Notes

First 5 to 15 minutes

The first impression. Small, volatile molecules that evaporate quickly. Usually bright and attention-grabbing so you know something has happened when you spray. Citrus, fresh herbs, light spices, and green notes dominate here. Their job is to hook you and hand off to the heart.

Bergamot Lemon Grapefruit Pink pepper Mint Lavender Aldehydes
02

Heart Notes

15 minutes to 4 hours

The main character. Once the top notes fade, the heart emerges and defines what the fragrance actually is. Florals, spices, fruits, and aromatic notes typically live here. This is the stage where most of your wear happens and where most fragrances live or die on personal taste.

Rose Jasmine Iris Violet Cinnamon Cardamom Neroli
03

Base Notes

4 hours onwards

The foundation and the final memory. Heavy, slow-evaporating molecules that anchor everything above. Woods, resins, musks, and amber tones dominate. Base notes are what people smell on your neck at close range and what stays on your clothes the next morning.

Sandalwood Vanilla Amber Musk Oud Patchouli Vetiver
Read this carefully

Notes are marketing shorthand. A "rose" in a fragrance is rarely just rose. It is a rose-shaped impression created by dozens of molecules working together. Two fragrances that both list "rose" as a heart note can smell wildly different depending on the supporting cast.

Chapter 04

Finding Your Scent

The traditional way of finding a fragrance (spraying five things in a department store, walking out with a headache, and picking whichever your date liked) is a terrible way to make a €100 decision. Here is how enthusiasts actually do it.

01

Test on skin, not paper

Paper strips only show the top notes. Your skin's oils and warmth transform the fragrance in ways paper cannot. If you can only get one impression, get it on your wrist and give it four hours.

02

One at a time

Never test more than two fragrances in the same session. Your nose fatigues fast. After the third spray, everything smells the same. Focus. One fragrance, one wrist, four hours of wear.

03

Wait for the dry-down

Do not judge in the first 15 minutes. That is the opening, and the opening is not what you will wear. Check in at hour one, hour three, and hour six. The heart and dry-down are what you are actually buying.

04

Wear it out into the world

A fragrance smells different at your desk than it does in a taxi, a restaurant, or around other people. Wear it through a normal day before deciding whether it is actually you.

05

Track what you like

Keep a note on your phone. When something works, write down what you were wearing, where, and how it made you feel. Patterns emerge fast. You will discover you love iris, or hate sweet gourmands, or always come back to woody bases.

06

Sample before you commit

A full bottle is a serious purchase. Sample sets or discovery boxes let you live with a fragrance for a week or two before deciding. This is genuinely how most enthusiasts build their wardrobe.

Chapter 05

Wearing and Storing

Small details make a big difference. How you apply, how much, and how you store a bottle are the boring bits nobody explains, but they are the difference between a fragrance that lasts six hours and one that lasts two.

How to Apply

01

Pulse points

Wrists, base of the neck, behind the ears, inside of elbows. Warm skin activates the fragrance and helps it project throughout the day.

02

Distance matters

Hold the bottle 15 to 20 centimetres from your skin. Too close and the alcohol is harsh. Too far and most of the spray drifts away.

03

Never rub

The old habit of rubbing your wrists together breaks the fragrance molecules and distorts the top notes. Just spray and let it settle naturally.

04

Moisturised skin holds more

Dry skin absorbs fragrance faster and lets it evaporate quicker. A light unscented moisturiser under your fragrance can add hours to how long it lasts.

05

Spray on clothes carefully

Clothes hold scent longer than skin, but darker fabrics can stain from concentrated oils. Test on an inside seam first. Best on wool, cotton, and cashmere.

06

Less is more

Two to four sprays is plenty for most fragrances. If you are wearing a heavy oud or oriental, one or two. If people can smell you from across the room, that is too much.

How to Store

01

Away from light

UV light breaks down the aromatic molecules. Keep bottles in their original box or in a drawer, not on a sunlit windowsill or bathroom shelf.

02

Stable temperature

Fluctuations damage fragrance faster than heat alone. A cool, dry cupboard beats a fridge (which nobody sane wants) but always beats a hot bathroom.

03

Keep the box

The original outer box protects from light and adds a temperature buffer. It also preserves resale value if you ever want to swap fragrances.

04

Cap tightly

Air oxidises the top notes first. A loose cap over months causes the opening to smell flat while the base stays fine. Screw it snug after each use.

05

Do not decant into cheap atomisers

Cheap plastic atomisers can leach into the fragrance and change how it smells. If you decant for travel, use glass or high grade plastic designed for perfume.

06

Shelf life

Stored properly, most fragrances last 3 to 5 years unopened, 2 to 3 years opened. Citrus-forward compositions turn first. Woody and oriental bases last longer.

Chapter 06

Our Data

Every fragrance on this site has been catalogued in detail. Not just brand and price, but note breakdowns, scent family classification, performance ratings, and mood pairings. Here is how we build that data and why we go to the trouble.

01

Sourced from perfumers

Every note pyramid we display comes from published information from the fragrance house or the perfumer who composed it. When houses do not publish full notes, we leave blanks rather than guess.

02

Family classification

Each fragrance is classified into one primary family and up to three secondary characteristics. This lets you filter for "woody florals" or "spicy orientals" rather than being stuck with a single label.

03

Performance ratings

Longevity and sillage ratings aggregate community feedback and professional review consensus. We use a 5-point scale so you can quickly compare across our catalogue.

04

Mood and occasion

Each fragrance is tagged with best-fit occasions (office, evening, summer, date) so you can browse by scenario, not just by family. Our Scent Finder uses these tags to build personal recommendations.

05

Genuine and authorised

Every bottle we ship comes from authorised distributors in the EU. We do not touch grey market or "tester" stock. If it is on our site, we can trace it back to the manufacturer.

06

Continuously updated

Reformulations happen. Notes change. When houses reformulate an existing fragrance, we update our data and flag the change so you know what you are buying today is not the same as what you loved in 2015.

Chapter 07

Glossary

The vocabulary the fragrance world assumes you already know. Bookmark this and refer back whenever a review uses a term you have not seen before.

Accord

A blend of individual notes that together create a single impression. The "leather" you smell is usually not real leather, it is a leather accord built from several supporting molecules.

Aldehyde

Synthetic molecules that add fizzy, waxy, or metallic brightness to the opening. Made famous by Chanel No 5. Often described as "champagne" or "clean linen" in feel.

Ambergris

A rare marine substance originally sourced from sperm whales. Today it is usually synthesised. Adds warmth, salt, and a musky depth to the dry-down.

Animalic

Notes that smell like skin, sweat, or musk. Historically from animal sources (civet, castoreum), now mostly synthetic. Adds sensuality and depth.

Batch code

A short code stamped on the bottle or box that identifies when the fragrance was produced. Useful for checking authenticity and estimating how fresh the stock is.

Chypre

A fragrance structure built on citrus top notes, floral heart, and a base of oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. Named after the perfume "Chypre" by Coty (1917).

Compliment count

Community slang for how often strangers ask you what you are wearing. High compliment fragrances tend to be sweet, gourmand, or vanilla forward.

Decant

A small bottle filled from a larger one, either for travel or to sample a fragrance without buying the full flacon. Discovery Collection sizes are decants.

Dry-down

The final phase of a fragrance after the top and heart notes have faded. What you smell in the last few hours of wear. Often the most intimate and personal stage.

Flanker

A follow-up fragrance built on the name of a successful predecessor. Often adds a word (Intense, Elixir, Nuit) to distinguish itself. Quality varies wildly.

Fougère

French for "fern". A family built on lavender, coumarin (hay), oakmoss, and geranium. Historically masculine, though modern interpretations transcend gender.

Gourmand

Fragrances built around edible notes. Vanilla, chocolate, caramel, coffee, praline, honey. Warm, sweet, comforting, and extremely popular in modern releases.

IFRA

The International Fragrance Association. Sets safety standards that restrict how certain ingredients can be used. IFRA restrictions are why some classic fragrances have been reformulated over the years.

Indolic

A quality found in white flowers like jasmine, orange blossom, and tuberose. Slightly fecal at high concentration but transformative at low levels. Adds sensuality.

Longevity

How long a fragrance is detectable on your skin. Measured from application to full fade. Depends on concentration, skin, and environmental conditions.

Niche

Fragrances from small, artist-led houses rather than mass-market designers. Often more unusual, more expensive, and produced in smaller quantities.

Nose

The industry term for a perfumer. The person who composes a fragrance from raw materials. Great noses are rare and often work across many houses.

Note pyramid

A visual representation of a fragrance broken into top, heart, and base tiers. The standard way of communicating what is inside a fragrance.

Oud

Wood from the agarwood tree, produced when the tree responds to a specific mould. Rare, expensive, and one of the most polarising notes in perfumery. Smoky, animalic, deeply divisive.

Projection

How large the fragrance bubble around you is at any given moment. Different from sillage. High projection means people can smell you from a metre away.

Reformulation

When a house changes the composition of an existing fragrance. Usually because of IFRA restrictions, cost pressure, or ingredient availability. Often controversial.

Sample

A tiny amount of fragrance (usually 1 to 5ml) sent to let you try before you buy. Not to be confused with a decant, which is typically larger.

Sillage

From the French for "wake". The scent trail you leave behind as you move through a room. Related to projection but slightly different. Sillage is what lingers.

Skin scent

A fragrance with low projection that stays intimate, only noticeable to people close to you. Often preferred for office wear or personal enjoyment rather than broadcast.

Tester

A bottle intended for use in-store rather than retail sale. Same juice, usually plainer packaging. Grey market operators often sell these as "cheaper" bottles.

Top-heart-base

The three tiers of a note pyramid. Top notes evaporate first, heart notes anchor the middle stage, and base notes carry the dry-down. The full arc of a fragrance.

Wardrobe

The collection of fragrances someone owns and wears. Enthusiasts usually build wardrobes with distinct fragrances for different seasons, occasions, or moods.

Chapter 08

Common Questions

Real questions from real customers. If yours is not answered here, our Customer Care team will happily walk you through anything.

Are your fragrances genuine?

Yes, absolutely. Every fragrance we sell is sourced from authorised EU distributors who buy direct from the fragrance houses. We do not source from grey market, parallel imports, or "tester" resellers. Every bottle can be traced back to the manufacturer.

Why is one EDP cheaper than the same EDP in Brown Thomas?

Physical department stores carry high overheads (rent, staff, in-store atomiser samples that go into landfill). We operate online with lower fixed costs and pass the saving to you. The juice inside the bottle is identical.

Can I return a fragrance if I do not like it?

Sealed, unopened bottles can be returned within 30 days. Once a bottle has been sprayed we cannot resell it, so we cannot accept opened returns. This is why we built the Discovery Collection: try six fragrances in decant form before committing to a full bottle.

How do I know if a fragrance will work for me?

The honest answer is you have to smell it on your skin. Our Scent Finder Quiz uses your existing preferences to shortlist candidates, and the Discovery Collection gives you six real fragrances to wear for weeks before deciding. Every enthusiast builds their wardrobe this way.

Does fragrance expire?

Fragrance does not spoil in a dangerous way, but it does degrade. Stored properly (dark, cool, sealed), an unopened bottle lasts 3 to 5 years. Once opened, expect 2 to 3 years before the top notes start to feel flat. Woody and oriental bases age far better than citrus-forward compositions.

Why do fragrances smell different on different people?

Skin chemistry is the shorthand. Body temperature, hydration, natural oils, diet, medications, and even hormones subtly change how a fragrance interacts with your skin. The same fragrance can smell sweeter on one person and drier on another. This is why testing on your own skin matters.

Why does my fragrance disappear after an hour?

Three common reasons. First, you are still smelling it but your nose has adjusted (called olfactory fatigue). Second, the fragrance is genuinely a lighter concentration (an EDT or Cologne). Third, dry skin absorbs fragrance faster. Moisturising before application helps significantly.

What is the difference between designer and niche?

Designer houses (Dior, YSL, Chanel) produce for the mainstream at scale. Niche houses (Amouage, Le Labo, Xerjoff) are smaller, artist led, and typically use more expensive raw materials. Neither is inherently better. Designer fragrances are often more crowd-pleasing, niche often more distinctive.

How much should I spray?

Two to four sprays for most fragrances. One or two for very concentrated oud or oriental compositions. If you can smell yourself strongly after 30 minutes, that is usually a sign to reduce next time. Others adapt to your scent faster than you do.

Is oud the same as agarwood?

Yes. Oud is the aromatic resin that forms inside agarwood trees when they respond to a specific mould. Natural oud is extremely expensive, so most fragrances use synthetic oud molecules that replicate the effect. Both can be beautiful when handled well.

What is a reformulation and why does it matter?

When a house changes the recipe of an existing fragrance, usually because of IFRA safety regulations or ingredient costs. Reformulations can be minor or dramatic. A fragrance you loved in 2010 may smell noticeably different in a 2025 bottle. We flag known reformulations on our product pages when we can verify them.

Do you ship outside Ireland?

Yes, we ship across the EU. Delivery times and prices vary by country. See our Delivery Information page for full details.

Ready to explore

Now you know the language.

Put it to use. Take the quiz to find fragrances matched to your taste, or try six curated Discovery scents in decant form before committing to a full bottle.