Colonia Eau de Cologne

Few fragrances have had less reason to change than Acqua di Parma Colonia Eau de Cologne, which is why it reads today much as it has always read.

The construction is simple and the quality is in the materials. Lemon and orange give the first impression, bergamot sharpens it, and the citrus is bright without the sugary edge that cheaper colognes bring. Underneath, rosemary and lavender do the real work, rosemary cool and camphorous, lavender herbal and a little powdery, the pair of them giving the scent its barbershop cleanliness. Lemon verbena extends the citrus into something leafier and greener, rose adds a small amount of softness, and then vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli close it out with a dry, rooty, faintly earthy finish.

This is a splash in the old sense. At cologne strength the volume drops away after the first couple of hours, leaving a quiet skin scent, so it is meant to be used freely rather than rationed. It does not hold like a modern eau de parfum, and it is not meant to: it is built to smell clean and unobtrusive all morning.

It is as close to genuinely unisex as fragrance gets, suits hot weather and travel, and is an easy thing to keep for everyday use rather than saving for occasions. It also makes a safe present, because there is very little in it for anyone to dislike.

The house behind it was founded in 1916 in Parma, the city it takes its name from, by Baron Carlo Magnani. His intention was a lighter kind of perfumery than the period favoured. Acqua di Parma is part of LVMH today and also makes candles and home fragrance, still boxed in the cylindrical cases that are a brand signature in themselves.