Note Pyramid
212 VIP Black Elixir
Of everything wearing the 212 VIP Black name, Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Black Elixir Eau de Parfum is the most elaborate, and it adds complications the original never bothered with.
The opening is bitter and cold. Black lavender reads as the herb dried and darkened, grapefruit cuts in sharp and faintly rubbery, and juniper brings a cool resinous bite, like crushed berries and pine needles. That trio is unusually austere for a scent sold on hedonism.
The middle sweetens, but strangely. Black liquorice is unmistakable, aniseed and salt and sugar at once, orange blossom lifts it with a clean white floral turn, and a saffron accord threads through with its leathery, slightly medicinal bitterness. The finish is the richest part: a black vanilla accord, dark and tarry rather than creamy, with oakwood giving a dry sawn timber quality and vetiver adding rooty earth underneath.
Nine materials makes this the busiest composition in the family, and it needs the first twenty minutes to resolve. Where the original 212 VIP Black, which appeared in 2017, moves simply from bitter to sweet, the elixir keeps the bitterness alive all the way down. It lasts a long time and sits heavy. Two sprays will see out a night and leave a collar smelling of liquorice the following morning. Cold weather only, after dark for preference, and aimed at men.
Fashion in 1981, fragrance in 1988: the first collection was shown in New York by a founder from Venezuela, and the first perfume came out under a Spanish licence held by Puig. Puig bought the fashion arm in 1995 and has since made 212 and Good Girl the scent names the brand is known by.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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