Ungaro pour l'Homme III
Twenty four materials are listed for Ungaro pour l'Homme III Eau de Toilette 100ml, and that alone tells you which decade of men's perfumery it belongs to.
The opening is a full citrus and herb spread: lemon and bergamot for brightness, orange for sweetness, neroli for a cleaner flowering edge, then coriander and basil adding a green, peppery, slightly soapy lift with lavender running through the middle of it. Nothing here is subtle and all of it is familiar in the best sense. The heart is floral in the way men's fragrance used to be. Carnation gives a dry, spiced, almost medicinal bite, geranium a crisp green edge, orris a cool powder, ginger a fizzing warmth, and black pepper a rasp over the top. Jasmine and rose fill it out and make the middle richer than any modern men's launch would dare to be.
Then the base goes properly deep. Civet brings an animal warmth, leather a dry tanned edge, amber and benzoin a sweet resinous glow, tonka bean a soft biscuit tin sweetness, vanilla a smooth finish, and sandalwood, cedarwood and patchouli the dry structure underneath, with musk holding the lot together. This is a drydown you can still smell on a coat days later.
As an eau de toilette it is lighter on the skin than the material list implies, but the concentration is not really the point: the composition is dense and it lasts. It is a cold weather, evening, properly dressed fragrance for a man who grew up when this style was the standard, and it will feel like fancy dress on anyone after something clean and quiet. The house was founded in Paris in 1965 by the couturier Emanuel Ungaro, has sat on avenue Montaigne since 1967, and licenses its perfume out rather than making it.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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