Note Pyramid
Unum Né il Giorno Né l'Ora
Few materials are as expensive or as cold as iris, and Filippo Sorcinelli Unum Né il Giorno Né l'Ora Extrait de Parfum 100ml, released in 2023, builds its whole middle around it.
The opening is wide. Lemon and bergamot give the expected brightness, but galbanum immediately drags it green and bitter, cardamom adds a cool dry spice, cedarwood brings pencil sharp dryness in before the halfway mark, and lily of the valley supplies a dewy floral coolness. Six materials at the top is a crowded start and it takes a little while to resolve.
Then iris takes over and the fragrance becomes quiet. Iris smells of cold earth, old paper and face powder all at once, dry rather than sweet, and it is the kind of material that makes a scent feel solemn. Jasmine and rose sit beside it, used to warm and round it rather than to perform, so the heart stays restrained and faintly austere. The base finally lets the temperature up. Musk is skin close and soft, sandalwood creamy, tonka bean mildly sweet in the way the inside of a biscuit tin is mildly sweet, and amber resinous and glowing. Together they take an austere middle and finish it with something comfortable, which is a large part of why the thing is wearable rather than merely admirable.
As an extrait de parfum it lasts a long time at low volume, sitting close to the skin through a working day. Filippo Sorcinelli is a designer, an organist and a photographer, and all three show in the work. He set up his LAVS atelier at Mondolfo in the Marche in 2001 to make liturgical vestments by hand, took commissions from the Vatican, and released his first fragrance in 2014.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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