Note Pyramid
Franck Olivier
Three materials is all that Franck Olivier Eau de Parfum holds, and it is the house signature, so it is worth being straight about what that means in wear.
Peach and plum open it together and they do most of the work. The peach is soft, fuzzy and gently sweet rather than juicy, the plum is darker and winier with a faint tartness underneath, and the two of them make a warm fruit accord that smells generous without being sharp. There is no citrus to cut through it and nothing green, which is why it reads as comfortable from the first second.
Heliotrope is the only other thing here and it changes everything. It is the powdery one, sweet and faintly floury like icing sugar through a sieve, and it turns the fruit into something closer to a dessert left on a windowsill than a bowl of it. The combination is simple and old fashioned in a way that has aged better than most fragrances of its type.
This is a short composition and it behaves like one. There is no development to follow, no base to wait for and no surprise at hour four. What you smell in the first ten minutes is what you get, softening steadily, and that suits a fragrance meant to be worn daily rather than studied. As an eau de parfum it carries enough oil to last six or seven hours and it sits close to the skin. From 2021, it is aimed at women, and it suits autumn and winter, daytime and evening equally, and anyone who finds modern fruit fragrances too sweet or too loud.
The house behind it is a family run Paris business trading as SODIP, which moved from couture into perfume in 1993 and has stayed in the accessible and mid price tier ever since, selling through pharmacies, department stores and travel retail. Coquillage is the fragrance it calls its own icon, and Collection Privee, Tribal and Touch complete the range.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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