Note Pyramid
Nature
A granny smith apple sits at the centre of Franck Olivier Nature Eau de Parfum, with a dozen other materials arranged around it, which makes this one of the busier and better value fruit florals on the shelf.
The opening is a fruit bowl handled with some care. Lychee is the distinctive one, floral and watery with that faintly rosy sweetness it always has, and marigold sits beside it, green, bitter and slightly dusty, which is an unusual choice and the reason the top does not read as generic. Peach adds flesh, amalfi lemon and bergamot add zest and bitterness, and the whole thing is bright for about fifteen minutes. Then granny smith apple takes over, tart and crisp and unmistakable, and the fragrance does something clever by putting cinnamon next to it. The spice gives the apple a baked quality without making it sweet. Lilac, lily of the valley and jasmine fill in around them, the lilac powdery, the lily of the valley cool and dewy, the jasmine creamy, so the middle is a full bouquet rather than a single flower.
White musk, sandalwood and virginia cedar close it out, clean and soft with a dry edge, which is exactly what a composition this busy needs at the end. From 2008, it gives six or seven hours as an eau de parfum, assertive for the first hour and soft and close after that. It is aimed at women, it suits spring and summer daytime especially well, and it is an easy choice for the office or for a warm afternoon. For the money, very little else offers this many moving parts.
The label is a Paris family firm trading as SODIP, which came into fragrance from couture in 1993 and built the business on low prices and broad reach, from the local chemist to the duty free hall. Coquillage remains the scent it calls its own icon, with Collection Privee, Tribal and Touch alongside it.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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