Mémoire d'une Odeur
Chamomile is a tea and a garden herb, and almost nobody builds a fragrance on it, which is the whole proposition of Gucci Mémoire d'une Odeur Eau de Parfum.
It opens on that chamomile and the effect is genuinely odd at first. The material is herbal and slightly bitter, with a dry, hay like sweetness and a faint orchard fruit edge behind it, and smelling it on skin rather than in a cup takes a moment to accept. There is no citrus to make the introduction easier, which is clearly deliberate.
Jasmine and musk fill the middle. The jasmine is restrained here rather than heady, used to give the herb a floral shape, and the musk is clean and skin like, blurring the edges so the chamomile stops reading as a kitchen cupboard and starts reading as a scent. Sandalwood, cedarwood and vanilla close it. Sandalwood is the creamy, milky wood, cedarwood the dry splintery one, and the vanilla sits very low, sweetening without turning the composition into a dessert. The drydown is soft, warm and quiet, and it is where most people decide they like it after all.
Projection is modest throughout and longevity is around seven hours. It is sold as unisex and it genuinely wears that way, it suits daytime, offices and warm weather, and it is the Gucci to try if the sweeter feminine bottles and the darker masculine ones both leave you cold. Alberto Morillas composed it.
Behind the name is a Florentine business started in 1921 by Guccio Gucci, trading in luggage and bags long before the loafer, the equestrian hardware and the ready to wear. Kering is the parent company, and Gucci perfume is made by licensees.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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