Note Pyramid
L'Homme Ideal Extreme
Set against the rest of its family, Guerlain L'Homme Ideal Extreme Eau de Parfum is the autumnal one, and the only member built around dark fruit rather than sweetness alone.
Almond is still the thread, powdery here and a little bitter, with pink pepper rattling over the top and bergamot giving a short clean lift. Then plum arrives and changes the direction completely: dark, jammy and slightly winey, it is an unusual material in a men's fragrance and it is what makes this one memorable. Cinnamon warms it and heliotrope adds a soft powder that ties the fruit back to the almond. The base is dry and serious. Tobacco brings a cured, faintly sweet leafiness, leather a worn smokiness, patchouli a damp earthiness, and cedarwood a sharp dry finish. Nothing in that base is sugary, which is what keeps the plum from tipping into something syrupy.
Thierry Wasser composed it in 2020. At eau de parfum strength it is the longest wearing of the lighter members of the range, seven hours or so, with a trail that is noticeable but not overbearing. Cold weather is where it belongs, and evenings especially, though it is quite at home in a winter office or at a long lunch. It is aimed at men and it suits anyone who has worn the original for years and wants something with more shadow in it.
Guerlain has traded from Paris since 1828 and is an LVMH company. Its reputation was built on perfumes like Shalimar in 1925, where sweetness and shadow were played against each other, and the Extreme is a modern men's take on the same trick. At this strength a 100ml bottle will last a couple of winters without any rationing.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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