Note Pyramid
Deep Red
Few fragrances from the early two thousands are still bought as deliberately as Hugo Boss Deep Red Eau de Parfum, and the reason is the fruit.
Blood orange opens it, dark and sweet with a berry like edge, and blackcurrant beside it brings a tart green sharpness that keeps the sugar in check. Pear adds a soft, watery sweetness and mandarin orange a brighter citrus lift, so the top of the fragrance is generous and immediately likeable without being cloying.
The middle is better than the opening suggests. Ginger brings a dry heat that cuts across the fruit, tuberose is the big material here, creamy and heady with a faintly rubbery richness that gives the composition real presence, and freesia adds a peppery cleanness that stops the flowers turning heavy.
The base is simple and effective. Vanilla is smooth and warm rather than sugary, sandalwood soft and creamy, and musk smooths over everything, and together they make a drydown that stays comfortable for hours and smells faintly of warm skin. Three materials is a short base for a fragrance this busy at the top, and it works because none of them is fighting for attention.
Beatrice Piquet and Alain Astori composed it and it was released in 2001, ten materials of which four are fruit. At eau de parfum strength it lasts seven or eight hours and projects generously for the first two, so a light hand is advisable and two sprays will do everything four would. Worn heavily in a warm room it becomes a great deal of fragrance. It reads feminine, it belongs to cold weather and evenings, and it has the warmth that most modern releases at this price have given up on.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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