Note Pyramid
Solo
Loewe Solo Eau de Toilette is the fragrance that keeps the rest of this range in business, and almost every flanker the house has made since 2004 is measured against it.
The opening is enormous for a toilette and it is very busy indeed. Mandarin orange, lemon and bergamot hit first as a bright citrus wash, guava slides in with a tropical tartness that stops it reading as a plain cologne, and then the herbs arrive: lavender, rosemary and thyme, all dry and slightly medicinal. Patchouli and costus are already present underneath, patchouli earthy, costus faintly animal and greasy in the way older perfumery used it, and together they stop the top from feeling like a shower gel.
The middle is where most of the character lives. Pink pepper and tangerine keep the brightness going, then cinnamon, nutmeg and caraway build a dry spice accord, mint and anise cool it from the side, and aldehydes give the whole thing that slightly waxy, soapy shimmer which makes a scent read as well dressed. It is a long list of materials and it does genuinely hold together.
The finish is simple and warm. Amber and vanilla sweeten it just enough to be comfortable, oakmoss adds a bitter green damp, and musk pulls everything down onto the skin.
From 2004, it manages seven or eight hours despite the concentration, because the spice and the base do the lifting once the citrus has burned off. It is a men's fragrance by marketing and it has always been worn more widely than that, suited to work, to dinner, to cold weather and warm. Loewe, founded in Madrid in 1846 and in fragrance since 1972, builds its perfumes within LVMH.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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