Lempicka Homme
Men who find most masculine fragrance either too clean or too heavy are the readership for Lempicka Homme Eau de Toilette, which sits in an odd space between the two.
Absinthe opens it and sets the tone: green, bitter, faintly medicinal, with the herbal sharpness that gives the drink its reputation. Ivy comes alongside and makes it greener still, cool and slightly damp like a wall in shade, and anise adds its sweet, cold, liquorice tinged bite. The first ten minutes are genuinely unusual and do not smell like a designer men's release at all.
The middle is where it turns. Violet is powdery and soft, a flower that has always read as slightly old fashioned and slightly cosmetic, and rum sits under it, boozy and dark and sugared. That pairing of a powdery flower with a spirit is the signature of the thing, and it is what people either love or cannot get past. The base settles into comfort. Licorice carries the anise idea down into something darker and chewier, labdanum brings a sticky resin, cedarwood keeps it dry and splintery, vanilla sweetens the edges and musk smooths the whole arrangement onto the skin. It is warm, slightly strange and very persistent for a toilette, holding six hours or so with a trail that follows you into a room.
It dates from 2018 and it belongs to autumn and winter, to evenings, and to anyone who would rather be asked what they are wearing than be told it smells nice. Lolita Lempicka moved from French ready to wear into perfume and has always worked a whimsical, storybook line, with its liquorice and violet signature from 1997 still the thing the house is known for.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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