Note Pyramid
Mon Premier Parfum
Lolita Lempicka Mon Premier Parfum Eau de Parfum carries the composition the house launched with in 1997, and almost thirty years on it still has no obvious imitators.
Ivy and star anise open it together, the ivy green and damp, the anise cold, sweet and slightly sharp, and cherry comes in over them in its confected form rather than as fresh fruit. It is an opening that smells like a story rather than a place, which was always the point. The middle is powder and green. Violet is the centre of it, soft and faintly cosmetic, iris adds a cold chalky root beneath, and amaryllis gives a pale green floral lift that stops the powder settling too thickly. This is the stage that made the house famous and it still smells unlike anything else on a counter.
The base turns edible without apology. Praline and vanilla are sweet and creamy, tonka bean lies under them with a dry, floury sweetness, musk softens the whole thing down, and vetiver cuts a thin line of dry root through the bottom so it never becomes sickly. That one bitter thread is what gives all the sweetness above it somewhere to push against.
Annick Menardo composed it. The eau de parfum concentration gives eight hours or more, with real projection for the first two, so a single spray does the job and the bottle goes a long way. Cold weather and long evenings suit it best, and it reads feminine throughout. Lolita Lempicka started life as a French ready to wear house, turned its attention to fragrance, and has kept both its whimsical, storybook character and its violet across Fleurs, Elixir Sublime, Lolitaland and the two men's scents it sells.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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