Note Pyramid
Man Pure Black
Tiare flower in a men's fragrance is the unusual decision in Mandarina Duck Man Pure Black Eau de Toilette 100ml, released in 2009, and it is what stops this being another citrus and vanilla exercise.
It opens briskly. Tangerine and bergamot give a sweet, bright citrus lift, and black pepper is laid across them, dry and rattling, so the first minutes have an edge rather than just a sparkle, though that stage is short. The heart is softer and more interesting. Tiare flower is a creamy, sun warmed white flower with a faintly coconut quality to it, and african orange blossom is set beside it, clean and white and a little green. Tonka bean sits under both with a powdered, biscuit like sweetness. Together they make a middle that is warm and smooth rather than spiced, which is a long way from what the name on the bottle suggests.
The close is comfortable and familiar. Vanilla sweetens, sandalwood brings creaminess, and virginia cedar keeps it dry and pale so the sweetness has a frame. Nine materials, and the overall shape runs from sharp to soft without any awkward joins.
Toilette strength makes it a four to six hour fragrance with moderate projection, and it is worth topping up once if you want it to carry through a whole evening. It is aimed at men, reads as unisex in the heart, and suits warm weather and daytime, where the tiare and the citrus have room to breathe.
The company behind it is Italian and made its name in luggage rather than scent: founded in Bologna in 1977, known for bright technical materials and moulded cases, and still better known for those than for its fragrances, the first of which is dated to 2004.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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