Note Pyramid
Superbia
Memoize London Superbia Extrait de Parfum is for someone who has already decided that rose and oud together are their territory, and who now wants the version with the most oil in it.
The arrangement is floral on top and dark underneath, and the join is the interesting part. Rose, orchid and ylang ylang make the opening lush, the first deep, the second softly fleshy, the third heady to the point of being almost fruity. Saffron is what breaks that up, dry and faintly bitter with a leathery character of its own, and it hands over neatly to sandalwood and cedarwood, the creamy and the dry, which bridge the middle and the base. Oud takes over from there, resinous and complex and a little animal, with leather reinforcing it, patchouli deepening it, amber warming it and musk holding it all against the skin for a very long time. Eleven materials, no padding, and a clear line from flower to resin. Extrait concentration here is about endurance rather than volume. The first spray is assertive, the next eight hours are quiet and close, and the following morning there will still be something on the collar of whatever you wore.
It belongs to cold months and to the evening, and it reads unisex despite the rose, because the back half of the composition is not conventionally feminine at all. Formal occasions suit it better than casual ones, and a cold night suits it better than a warm room, where the oud and patchouli can become insistent.
Those still weighing it up can find the same fragrance as a small eau de parfum, which is the cheaper way to take the decision and the one most people should take first.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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