Maghateer
Four kinds of rose are recorded at the top of Nabeel Maghateer Eau de Parfum 100ml, which is an extravagance you almost never see written down, and the scent that follows is sweet, smoky and entirely unembarrassed. It is dated 2022.
Rose, Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose and Damascus rose open it together, and the differences between them matter less than the sheer weight of flower. Cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and pink pepper give it heat, elemi adds a lemony resin, orange lifts it briefly, and coffee darkens the whole thing from the first minute. Then it gets darker still. Leather and styrax bring smokiness and tar, cypriol an inky bitterness, clove and ginger more dry spice, and ylang ylang a rich faintly banana like creaminess. Patchouli, vetiver, coriander and geranium hold the middle in place, geranium contributing a green rose edge that keeps the flowers from turning jammy.
The base is the surprise. Spun sugar and caramel sit next to castoreum and oud, which is to say confectionery next to a smoky animal leather, and somehow it works. Incense, benzoin, labdanum and vanilla thicken the sweetness, guaiac wood and sandalwood supply a smoky edge and cream, and oakmoss, amber and musk finish it off with earth and warmth. Expect it to last through an evening and into the next morning, projecting hard for the first two hours. Cold weather is essential; in heat it becomes overwhelming. It reads as a scent for someone who wants rose and smokiness in the same breath and is not looking for anything polite.
Production happens at the Sharjah Airport International Free Zone, where this Emirati house makes incense and oud alongside the perfumes it is better known for abroad.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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