Phantom
Rhubarb is the material to judge Rabanne Phantom Parfum 50ml by, because it is the one that stops this smelling like everything else on the shelf.
The opening pairs it with cardamom, lemon and bergamot. Cardamom gives a dry, slightly husky spice, the two citruses do the brightening, and the rhubarb runs sour and green through the middle of all three, closer to the cut stalk than to anything cooked. The effect lasts about ten minutes before the composition starts to warm. What follows is cleaner than the base list suggests. Lavender and geranium work as a pair, one herbal and camphorous, the other cool and leafy with a bitter edge to it, and they give the heart a laundered quality. Cedarwood runs dry beneath them and patchouli adds weight and a dark, slightly musty sweetness, which is what keeps the clean part from turning sterile.
Vanilla and tolu balsam supply the warmth at the end, resinous and faintly medicinal rather than edible, and Haitian vetiver draws a smoky, earthy line under it. The 50ml is the size most buyers settle on: enough to live with, small enough to replace when a newer flanker tempts them. Expect strong presence for the first hour and close company for several more. Anne Flipo, Dominique Ropion and Juliette Karagueuzoglou are the names behind the formula, dated 2023.
The house behind it is French by origin and Spanish by ownership. Its namesake designer presented a debut collection in 1966, the fragrance arm was set up by Puig two years later, and Calandre followed in 1969. Puig absorbed the brand entirely in 1987 and has run it since, with Lady Million and Olympea carrying the women's side and 1 Million the men's. The name on the box now reads simply Rabanne.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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