Eau de Rochas Eau de Toilette Gift Set

If you want to introduce somebody to a fragrance rather than simply hand them a bottle, Eau de Rochas Eau de Toilette Gift Set is a straightforward way to do it.

The composition is by Nicolas Mamounas and it is built the old way, with a real citrus opening rather than a sweetened one. Lemon and bergamot arrive first and they are properly tart, mandarin orange fills in the rounder, sweeter side behind them, and lemon verbena gives the whole top a herbal, crushed leaf quality. The middle turns floral without turning sweet: daffodil is cool and green with a slight bitterness, jasmine warms it, and lily of the valley brings a clean, almost soapy clarity. Then oakmoss, myrrh and patchouli settle underneath, damp, earthy and dry in turn, and they are what make it last.

This is a spring and summer scent and a daytime one. It reads as feminine in the traditional sense but it is worn by men too, which tends to happen with citrus built on moss and resin. The eau de toilette strength keeps it polite in close quarters and makes a second spray after lunch entirely normal.

A set is bought for an occasion. It travels well as a present, it does not need wrapping skill, and because the fragrance has been around for decades it carries a certain reassurance with it. Decades on the shelf also mean the person opening the box is quite likely to recognise what is in it.

Paris, 1925, is where Rochas starts, with a couturier known for his young clientele. Perfume came in 1936, and from 1955 the house was led by Helene Rochas, who widened the fragrance range considerably. Interparfums bought the brand and all its trademarks from Procter and Gamble in 2015.