Note Pyramid
Mademoiselle Rochas
Released in 2017, Mademoiselle Rochas Eau de Parfum was the house's attempt at a modern signature, and the apple that opens it is the detail that made it work.
Anne Flipo uses that apple on its own at the top, with nothing supporting it, and it is a green, crisp apple rather than a sweet one. The effect is clean and slightly tart, and it gives the fragrance an immediate lift that does not depend on the usual citrus accord every launch reaches for. Underneath, the middle is a traditional floral arrangement handled lightly. Rose is the backbone, jasmine fills it out with a warmer, creamier white floral weight, and violet leaf runs through both of them with a cool green sappiness that picks up where the apple left off. It is the violet leaf that keeps this from smelling like something from thirty years ago.
The base is soft and skin close. Sandalwood brings a creamy smoothness, ambergris a dry warmth with a faint salted quality, and musk a clean, laundered finish. Seven materials, no clutter, and a composition that does not change dramatically once it has settled.
The eau de parfum concentration gives it staying power without volume. It holds for most of a day while sitting near the skin, which makes it usable at work and in close company, and it is comfortable in every season rather than being pinned to one. It reads as feminine and it suits a wide range of ages, which is unusual for a scent built around a fruit.
Marcel Rochas founded the house in Paris in 1925, having built a name dressing young women, and perfume became part of it in 1936. Helene Rochas ran the business from 1955. Procter and Gamble passed the trademarks to Interparfums in 2015.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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