Mademoiselle Rochas in Black
Black tea and leather are what make Mademoiselle Rochas in Black Eau de Parfum 90ml the darker proposition in its part of the range, and the difference is immediately obvious on skin. It opens on blackberry, which is a deeper, jammier fruit than most florals reach for, with black tea beside it giving a dry, tannic, slightly smoky bitterness and bergamot adding a bitter citrus brightness over the top. The middle is short and effective: leather, soft and tanned rather than harsh, with rose against it for a sweet floral contrast that keeps the whole thing from turning severe. The finish is modern, with ambroxan supplying that clean mineral warmth which makes a scent feel polished and slightly abstract, and oakmoss underneath adding a damp, bitter green.
Seven materials in all, which is lean by current standards, and the result is legible rather than complicated. You can follow every part of it, and the contrast between dark fruit and dry tea is the whole idea. It is an eau de parfum, so expect proper staying power: several hours in which it is obvious, then a long quiet finish, with two sprays sufficient for an evening. The 90ml bottle gives a low cost per wearing for something you will mostly reach for in cold weather. Autumn and winter suit it, as do evenings, and it will appeal to women who find most fruity florals far too sweet. It dates from 2020.
The house opened in Paris in 1925 under Marcel Rochas, a couturier known for dressing the young, who went into perfumery eleven years afterwards. His wife Helene ran it from 1955 and built the fragrance side up a great deal; Interparfums acquired the brand and its trademarks from Procter and Gamble in 2015.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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