Note Pyramid
Utur Al-Yaqut Marwan
Three materials and no padding. Utur Al-Yaqut Marwan Eau de Parfum 30ml is grapefruit, jasmine and guaiac wood, and the pleasure of it is the distance between them. The grapefruit is bitter and a little sulphurous, which is what makes grapefruit interesting rather than merely fruity. The jasmine pushes up through it sweet and heady and almost fleshy. Guaiac wood finishes, dry and smoked and resinous, with more of a cold hearth about it than a living tree. You can hear all three separately through a wearing, which is unusual and is worth more than a longer list of materials you cannot pick out.
The small bottle is the right way to buy a scent this particular. At 24 euro it costs well under the 100ml, it goes in a pocket, and if smoked wood over grapefruit turns out not to be your thing you have not committed to a year of it. If it does suit you, the large bottle is there.
Wear it in daylight rather than at night, and in spring or autumn rather than in the heat or the cold. The guaiac wood tilts it masculine and the jasmine pulls the other way, so in practice it goes on anyone. One spray is usually enough given how far the grapefruit travels in the first half hour. Guaiac wood is used in Marwan and nowhere else here, which is reason enough to go looking for it rather than settling for another bitter citrus opening. Jasmine, by contrast, appears in several of these bottles, so if the flower is the part you want there are other ways to get at it. There is a 100ml bottle for the day you are certain.
The range is Saphir's own and the company is Spanish from top to bottom, with its beginnings in 1940 as a family warehouse in Zaragoza under the name Almacenes Corinto. Every bottle in Utur Al-Yaqut is sold as eau de parfum, so size and materials are the only things that change from one to the next.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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