Note Pyramid
Foconero
Salt in the middle of a herbal composition is the detail that makes Tiziana Terenzi Foconero Extrait de Parfum 100ml worth a test, and it is not a detail you meet often.
The opening is busy and sharp. Lemon, bergamot and lime pile citrus on citrus, each slightly different, and then thyme, juniper and lavender turn it herbal almost immediately. Juniper is the one that stands out, resinous and cool with that gin bitterness, and lavender behind it is more camphorous than soapy here. Three citrus materials in a row could easily be redundant, and the saving grace is that the herbs arrive before any of them have outstayed their welcome. Salt comes next, mineral and dry, and it does something odd and good: it strips the sweetness out of the flowers around it. Ylang ylang, lily of the valley and hyacinth are all there, creamy, green and watery in turn, but the salt keeps them from blooming into anything lush. Cardamom sits across the whole middle with a cool, slightly soapy spice.
The base is dry ground. Oakmoss and patchouli bring earth and bitterness, sandalwood a creamy softness, and cedarwood a clean pencil dryness. Fifteen materials, and the composition stays taut the whole way through rather than relaxing into warmth. There is no sweet stage at any point in the wear, which is unusual at this price and this concentration.
At extrait strength the oil load is high, which here does not mean loud. It means hours of wear at a controlled volume, close to the skin after the first hour. That suits it to warm weather and to daytime, where it is one of the more wearable things in the house catalogue. Unisex. A candle making family near Rimini stands behind the house, which opened in 2012 under Paolo Terenzi and his sister Tiziana and still produces everything in small runs.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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