Orion
Released in 2015, Tiziana Terenzi Orion Extrait de Parfum 100ml takes the fruit and smoke pairing that so many houses have attempted and pushes it harder than most.
Pineapple and apple open it bright and sweet, redcurrant adds a tart red fruit edge, and bergamot cleans the whole thing up with a bitter lift. For a few minutes it is simply fresh and sharp. Redcurrant is the one doing the most work there, because it is tart where the other two are sweet. Then birch arrives and the scent changes character. Birch does that work, dry and burnt smelling with a tar quality running through it, and set against the fruit above it is the deliberate collision it appears to be. Thyme adds a herbal bitterness, jasmine a white floral sweetness that softens the join, and patchouli earth and damp underneath. Thyme is an odd thing to find in this position and it earns its place, keeping the middle from turning into straightforward smoke.
The base is dense. Oud brings its resinous, medicinal darkness, frankincense a cool smoky resin, cedarwood a clean dryness, amber sweetness and body, and musk the final smoothing. Thirteen materials, and the balance between the bright half and the dark half is what the composition is actually about. The oud is handled with more restraint than the material usually gets, and the frankincense keeps it from dominating.
At extrait strength this lasts an extremely long time and projects hard for the first two or three hours. Use it sparingly and in cold weather, where it is at its best, and in the evening rather than at a desk. It reads unisex. Italian, and young for a house with this kind of following: Paolo Terenzi and his sister Tiziana opened it in 2012 on the back of the family candle trade near Rimini, and the heavy decorated bottles are named after stars.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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