Trussardi
Trussardi Eau de Parfum carries the house name, and the composition is as old school as that suggests: twenty one materials arranged in the grand manner.
The opening is green and bracing. Galbanum leads, a hard, bitter, sap green resin that smells like a cut stem, and aldehydes lift it with their fizzing, soapy brightness. Coriander adds a dry, spiced seed note, hyacinth brings a cold watery green flower, and bergamot rounds the edges. It is an opening in the style of the great classical perfumes rather than anything contemporary.
The heart is a full bouquet of seven. Orris is the dry, powdery, earthy root that gives the middle its texture, geranium contributes a green and slightly metallic edge, ylang ylang a thick ripe creaminess, tuberose weight, rose structure, jasmine warmth and lily of the valley a dewy sharpness over the top. Flowers in that number only work if they are properly balanced, and here they are blended into one smell rather than left as a list.
The base runs to nine materials and it is substantial. Oakmoss gives the damp forest floor bitterness, leather a dry smoky edge, patchouli depth, styrax a resinous almost burnt sweetness, cedarwood and sandalwood the dry and creamy sides of the structure, with amber, musk and vanilla smoothing the whole thing into a long warm finish.
This is not a quick fragrance to understand and it is not meant to be. Eau de parfum concentration and a base of that size mean it will still be present many hours after it was applied. It suits evenings, cold weather and anyone with a taste for perfumery as it was written a few decades ago. The house began in Bergamo in 1911 as a glove workshop under Dante Trussardi, and Nicola Trussardi made it an international name in Italian fashion. Angelini Beauty holds its fragrance licence.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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