Note Pyramid
Aldehydes
Accento Overdose
Christian Carbonnel composed Xerjoff Accento Overdose Eau de Parfum 100ml, released in 2019, and it is the sharpest and strangest thing in this part of the range.
It opens on aldehydes alone. That is a brave way to start a scent and it is the reason the first thirty seconds smell the way they do: bright, waxy, slightly soapy and almost fizzing, like the air above a hot iron. Aldehydes are a technique rather than a flower, and used at this volume they announce themselves.
Underneath, three white and red flowers carry the body of it. Egyptian jasmine is rich, warm and faintly animal, bulgarian rose is deep and jammy with a green thorn running through it, and lily of the valley is the cool one, dewy and bell like and slightly green. The three of them together make a big, old fashioned floral, and the aldehydes above keep it lifted rather than sweet.
The close is the surprise. Eucalyptus and pine are what this ends on, cool and camphorous on one side, sharp and resinous on the other. A floral that finishes on a cold, mentholated forest note is not a common thing, and whether you love it or find it odd will decide this purchase for you.
At eau de parfum strength the materials are concentrated and the 100ml bottle is a serious commitment. One or two sprays carry a long way. It reads as feminine in the heart and unisex at the end, and it suits cold weather and evenings where you want to be the most interesting smell in the room.
The house is Italian, based in Turin and formally established in 2007 by Sergio Momo and Dominique Salvo. Its reputation rests on costly raw materials and ornate bottles, with releases grouped into collections.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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