Man Parfum

A house known first for women's shoes does not have an obvious claim on men's fragrance, but Jimmy Choo Man Parfum makes a confident case for itself.

The opening is bright and slightly odd in a good way. Bergamot brings the expected clean citrus bitterness, black pepper a dry rasping heat, and apple sits between them, crisp and green rather than sweet, which is the detail that stops the first minute sounding like every other men's scent on the counter. The heart is aromatic and dry. Lavender gives a herbal, barbershop clarity, orange blossom lifts it with a clean white floral sweetness, and artemisia brings a bitter, green, almost medicinal edge that sharpens both of them. That bitterness is the backbone of the composition and it is what keeps the fragrance from turning soft. Underneath, amber provides a warm resinous base, benzoin a sticky balsamic sweetness and patchouli a dark earthy floor. Nine materials altogether, properly tiered, with a clear progression from bright to bitter to warm.

As a parfum concentration it carries well, with firm projection in the first hour and a close, warm trail afterwards that lasts most of a day. It suits evenings, autumn and winter, and men who want something polished rather than brash. It is also an easy fragrance to wear to an office without causing comment, which is more than can be said for a good deal of what is sold at this strength.

The house was founded in London in 1996 and built its reputation on women's shoes before expanding into bags, small accessories and men's footwear. Its fragrance range is produced under licence by Inter Parfums.